마틴 마르지엘라의 디자인 코드 분석 - 체크리스트법을 중심으로 -

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Martin Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative designers who have followed his lead. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Margiela’s creations represented a break with the existing order, revealing an entirely new aesthetic conception of the beauty of form, and a fresh way to express a fashion personality and artistic philosophy. Martin Margiela has succeeded by his willingness to test the boundaries, and show that the creative process, particularly in the domain of design expression, requires the ability to overcome implicitly understood norms and restrictions.