비비안 웨스트우드 패션에 나타난 디자인 액티비즘

Abstract

This study aims to present a direction for design activism by analyzing Vivienne Westwood’s diverse social participation through fashion design and its meaning. I conducted a literature review to understand the definitions of activism and fashion activism, and examine how the concept of activism is represented in fashion. The examples of Vivienne Westwood’s designs were limited to the men’s wear line and her Red Label collection for ten years from S/S of 2013 to F/W of 2022. The elements of activism found in Vivienne Westwood’s fashion, all based on resistance, can be broken down into 1) communication of identity expression; 2) tradition based on historicism; 3) inclusiveness of value recognition; and 4) satire through parody and humor. Communication reveals itself as an expression of identity through the slogans, graphics, and stage compositions, which convey such messages using various methods, either by exemplifying the themes and inspirations or becoming the subject itself. Tradition shows unique modernization by adding individuality to the traits of historicism and Englishness. Inclusiveness breaks down boundaries by respecting androgyny, contributing to the progress of developing countries, and acknowledging the contribution to the pursuit of public benefits. Satire uses metaphors so that heavy themes can be accepted more easily through humor and parody. Vivienne Westwood also enacts activism through sustainable collections, including the Red Label line. The brand expresses its identity through words and actions, as well as fashion, by posting its ideas in succinct forms on online journals and social media, and taking part in demonstrations and marches.