일본 상대(上代)의 색채와 염직

Abstract

The traditional colors of Japan are a collection of colors traditionally used in Japanese literature, textiles such as kimono and other Japanese arts and crafts. The Asuka period was a period in the history of Japan lasting from 552 to 710. The Nara period of the history of Japan covers the years from 710 to 794. Empress Gemmei established the capital of Heijo-kyo(present-day Nara). Most names of colors originated from the names of plants, flowers, and animals that bore or resembled them. The most important color, red shu-iro(scarlet), has been used since the Nara Period as both a medicine and a dye. Green, the universal symbol of nature. A popular feature of many court stories such as Manyoshu. A pure blue created with a single indigo dye. In Asuka․Nara Period, the traditional colors of Japan traced their historical origins to the Twelve Level Cap and Rank System which was established in 603 by prince Shotoku. In this system, rank and social hierarchy were displayed and determined by certain colors. Colors known as kinjiki(forbidden colors) were strictly reserved for the robes of the highest ranking government officials. Colors known yurushiiro(permissible colors) were permitted for use by the common people. In Asuka․Nara Period, the very unique technique Ungen color coordinate used in craft, textile and interior. According to the restoration dyeing fabric, the traditional colors was divided into four categories: deep, medium, light and pale. The colorimetry result of 25 restoring dyed fabrics as following; Hue difference was 1.8, value difference was 1.4, chroma difference was 1.4 of prefix asa. Hue difference was 2.1, value difference was 0.9, chroma difference was 1.6 of prefix koki. Kyoukechi, roukechi and koukechi were examples of dyeing in the Japanese Asuka Nara period. At this time ‘Denjukoksuchou’ was the oldest embroidery in Japan.