The Study of Italian Velvet 14th Century-17th Century

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to document an unidentified velvet fabric which is located in the Museum. The investigation was conducted by analyzing color, weaving technique. pattern of the study object. To identify the origin of the object, many references about color trends, construction methods and patterns were accessed. Two comparative objects which were dating from 1600 to 1699 in the Museum of F.I.T. were selected since they are similar to the study object. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The type of this study object is 'cut and voided velvet'. It is obtained establishing the motif as areas of cut pile so as to form a pattern, while leaving other areas of the grounded weave without pile. Two flowers and two tulips with S curved stems are composed as one unit in the vertical direction. (2) The colors used in this study object. which are ivory, smoke blue, medium orange, and yellow. are part of a new trend color in the 17th century. (3) The vertical undulating stripe patterns are also of significance in this fabric. They seemed to be contemporary with the serpentine line which was common since the 15th century and the vertical stripes pattern which appeared from the 16th century. (4) The stylized tulip patterns of this study object began to appear in the early 17th century. The stems and leaves of this patterns are less sinuous than the floral motifs of the later 17th century. Therefore, the study object is dated to early in 17th century because of the color combination. stripes. stylized tulips, leaves. and stems are showing the characteristics of this period.