근대기(17C-19C) 남성복에 나타난 군복의 영향요인

Abstract

Men's wear originated from expectation of the functionality as a means of expressing the status and power along with the attraction or the essence of dressing itself. Men's wear and the military uniform have been closely connected to each other regardless of an era, distinguishing class and regime and having a mutual effect on each other with dignified forms or decorations. The modern times allowed men's wear to be elaborated in various forms to be transformed into modern men's clothes. Traditionally, their men's wear used integrated elements including the authority, class and control along with the functionality and embellishment. Men's wear originated from the military uniform was developed to an external expressive medium for social exchange, having the socio-cultural significance, and may be assumed as the beginning of ready-to-wear for standardization and mass-production. Socio-cultural influences on the change of this period's men's wear include an ideological flow and zeitgeist, transportation and trade from economic and technological developments and the imperialism. However, there is no research on influencing factors of the miliary uniform on men's wear. Hence, this study aims to summarize transition of men's wear in modern times and influencing factors of the military uniform. It is expected to give data for understanding the military look and its design used in the contemporary fashion. This study intends to understand formation and the meaning of men's wear under mutual connection of changes of men's wear and the military uniform influencing it in the modern period. This study summarizes forms, use categories and episodes of men's top through analyzing men's wear details having connection with design elements according to changes of the military uniform related to weapon and tactics of the army in modern times. As for the research methodology, it examines changes of men's wear shown from social transition while identifying association of men's wear with the military uniform through surveying related data. it also analyzes historical materials on men's wear and the military uniform from related data including paintings, data held by a museum, documentaries and fashion photo images.