South Korean first-tier suppliers in apparel global value chains: Upgrading and labour implications in the Asian context

Abstract

This article traces the historical development of apparel suppliers in the Republic of Korea, particularly the rise of first-tier suppliers (FTSs). Using the cases of two leading FTSs, the authors examine how they expanded their international presence, especially in Asia, to become large multinationals. Particular attention is paid to the development of these FTSs during the period following the global financial crisis of the late 2000s. This article investigates whether, having rapidly grown to become partners handling a complex business environment, they now occupy a strategic position in the reconfigured apparel global value chains. It also examines their responses to labour issues, considering what their upgrading implies for workers.