20세기 이전 서양복식사에 나타난 주름의 조형성 - 남성복을 중심으로 -A Study on the Formative Characters in the Pleat of Western Costume Before the 20th Century - Focusing on Men's Costume -
- Other Titles
- A Study on the Formative Characters in the Pleat of Western Costume Before the 20th Century - Focusing on Men's Costume -
- Authors
- 김주경; 금기숙
- Issue Date
- 2012
- Publisher
- 한국복식학회
- Keywords
- Aesthetics(조형미); Costume(복식); History of Western Costume(서양복식); Men' s costume(남성복); Pleat(주름)
- Citation
- 복식, v.62, no.02, pp.26 - 39
- Journal Title
- 복식
- Volume
- 62
- Number
- 02
- Start Page
- 26
- End Page
- 39
- URI
- https://scholarworks.bwise.kr/hongik/handle/2020.sw.hongik/19732
- ISSN
- 1229-6880
- Abstract
- This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times,had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.
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- Appears in
Collections - College of Fine Arts > Department of Textile Art and Fashion Design > 1. Journal Articles
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