일본 중세의 색채 문화: 가마쿠라 · 무로마치 시대를 중심으로

Abstract

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The JapaneseMedieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period(1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Bukefamilies. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbiddencolors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading tobeautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colorsthat conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of asamurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari",and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi(yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous andstrong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silverleaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferredby Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of thekosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was usedfor the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working classbegan to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which becamepopular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionalityand practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.