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일본 전통 복식 소재 사시코의 연구 - 츠가루 코긴과 남부 히시자시를 중심으로 -Study of Japanese Traditional Textile Sashiko - Focussed on Tsugaru Kogin and Nambu Hishizashi -

Authors
이경희
Issue Date
2019
Publisher
한국니트디자인학회
Keywords
Japan; Traditional Textile; Sashiko; Tsugaru Kogin; Nambu Hishizashi; 일본; 전통 소재; 사시코; 츠가루 코긴; 남부 히시자시
Citation
패션과 니트, v.17, no.3, pp.78 - 86
Journal Title
패션과 니트
Volume
17
Number
3
Start Page
78
End Page
86
URI
https://scholarworks.bwise.kr/kumoh/handle/2020.sw.kumoh/218
ISSN
1738-1177
Abstract
Sashiko is a stitching method which attaches a layer of fabric to another layer with fine stitches all over the surface of the fabric. Sashiko originated in Japan’s rural north and spread south along trade routes. Traditionally used to reinforce points of wear or to repair worn places or tears with patches, making the piece ultimately stronger and warmer, this running stitch technique is often used for purely decorative purposes in quilting and embroidery. Mostly geometric patterns are used to make this work. The kogin stitch is a type of sashiko made in the Tsugaru area. Kogin was a working outfit which was made of ordinary hemp cloth dyed with indigo and stiched with hemp thread. Patterns of kogin-stiches are classfied into three types, Higashi kogin, Nishi kogin and Mishima kogin, which indicate the approximate areas of their origin. Nambu hishizashi stitches(Lozenge-patterned stitches) originated at the shores of lakes and rivers in the territory of the feudal government of Nambu province. This area is facing to the Pacific Ocean. Protected by the mountains, there is not much snow in winter. Unlike the near-by area of Tsugaru, the province of Nambu is characterized by a wide-spread landscape. The impressive light blue colors and refreshing elegance of the clothes in Nambu remind us of that natural feature. The sharp corners of the lozenge-patterns were believed to stab evilness. Hishizashi-stitches were applied to coats, trousers and aprons. As women’s aprons were parts of clothes, colorful hishizashi-stitches of woolen yarn were made during the Taisho period. Like many ancient textile traditions, its exact origins are lost to time. Sashiko probably developed some time during the Edo period, by the Meiji era, sashiko was a well-established technique.
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LEE, KYUNG HEE
화학소재공학부
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