Wave transformation, impact, and overtopping on a rubble mound breakwater: Large scale measurements and numerical modeling

Abstract

A large-scale laboratory experiment was conducted to study wave transformation, impact, and overtopping and to evaluate numerical model capabilities and limitations. A numerical model based on the Volume-Averaged/Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations was used to compare the results with the experimental data. The model predictions of the free surface elevation and the cross-shore variation of the significant wave heights agreed with the experimental observations. For undertow, the agreement of model predictions with observations improved with distance away from the rubble mound breakwater. The numerical simulation of the wave impact pressure qualitatively reproduced the data measured during the experiment. Comparisons of numerical and experimental results for wave overtopping and turbulence are in progress. © 2007 World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.